“When we painted Australia, we painted it like England,” says Stephen Pannell of the S.C. Pannell Winery in McLaren Vale. “You tend to copy what some other country does rather than stepping outside and saying, ‘Who cares if they do it like that there?
It’s said that the more things change, the more they stay the same. Except when they don’t. Take the case of the evolution of Australian wine. Only recently (and erroneously) a colleague dismissively described it to me as all things red and dusty, cheap and cheerful. The truth couldn’t be further away.